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Spice up your muffin rack
By Susan Fuller Slack, CCP
Photography by Robert Clark / Styled for photography by Muffie Vardell Wells
A plain cake box mix is elevated into moist, flavorful Almond-Orange Cheesecake Muffins. Popular for breakfast today, our Thomas’ English Muffins are a close cousin to the English teacake, first produced in New York by young British immigrant Samuel Bath Thomas in 1894. Wire oval basket, c.1900, courtesy of McIntosh Cottage Antiques; Terra Firma maze cobalt dinner plate and Juliska Clever Creatures Honey Pot, courtesy of non(e)such.
“Oh, do you know the muffin man, the muffin man, the muffin man … who lives on Drury Lane?”
Muffins are forever immortalized in this popular English nursery song from the early 19th century. It was an English tradition for muffin men to peddle warm muffins and crumpets in the streets of London around teatime. They announced their presence by loudly ringing a brass handbell. As the cacophony of clanging handbells from muffin vendors reverberated throughout England’s city streets and suburbs, muffins became deeply ingrained in the British psyche.
Victorian novelist Charles Dickens referenced the homey, comforting characteristics of muffins in many of his novels. Etymologists believe the word muffin stems from the Low German word muffe or “little cake,” the plural being muffin. The word muffin first appeared in print around 1703.
The half-penny muffins of the street vendors — made from flat rounds of yeast dough cooked on a hot griddle — differ from America’s cakelike muffins, which are a form of quick bread made with fast-acting chemical leavenings. The yeast muffins descended from ancient Celtic griddle cakes such as bara maen — Welsh bakestone bread dating back to the 10th century. Englishwoman Hannah Glasse gives a detailed muffin recipe in her cookbook The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy (London 1747); several of America’s founding fathers owned a copy.
This type of small yeast bun, simply called a muffin, is still made in England; occasionally it is referred to as a teacake. It’s a close cousin to our yeast-risen English muffin, first produced in New York by young British immigrant Samuel Bath Thomas in 1894. Instantly popular, griddle-baked English muffins — initially called toaster crumpets — became a mainstay in the American diet as a breakfast bread.
Yeast muffins are close kin to British crumpets, which are made with a thick batter shaped inside ring molds on a hot griddle. Crumpets are cooked on only one side and have a pleasant spongy, chewy texture. The tops develop “nooks and crannies” similar to the interiors of English muffins when they are pulled apart.
Home baking was given a boost with the increased availability of refined flour, sugar, and chemical leavening. In 1796, Amelia Simmons’ American Cookery, the first American cookbook, offered novel baking recipes with pearlash, a refined potash from wood and other plant ash. As a new chemical leavening, it helped transform American baking, making it quicker and easier. Yeast breads were time consuming and included making yeast from barm (ale yeast) — the froth on the top of fermenting ale.
Around mid-19th century, leavening agents included saleratus (potassium bicarbonate), baking soda, and a baking powder prototype of baking soda blended with cream of tartar. American home bakers worked to overcome inconsistencies in the early leaveners. In 1856, Eben N. Horsford, who produced the first modern U.S. chemistry lab at Harvard University, developed the first successful baking powder, still marketed under the Rumford name. Cakes and quick breads with many variations soon appeared; cupcakes and muffins quickly followed.
Muffins are a smaller, sweeter, lighter version of the quick bread loaf. For many people, they are a favorite form of comfort food associated with childhood. On National Muffin Day, which falls on Feb. 28, “muffinteers” around the country form baking parties to share fresh muffins with those in need.
Where the Mixture Meets the Oven
Quick and easy to prepare, their enticing, fragrant aromas and tender textures make them a favorite with home bakers. In 1859, muffins were called gems. Boston resident Nathaniel Waterman patented a gem pan made of heavy cast iron with connected muffin cups. Gems were often prepared from whole wheat graham flour with little sugar. The pans were also excellent for making corn muffins.
Muffin pans come in three sizes: mini, which was popular in the 1930s; standard, with each well holding about ½ cup batter; and jumbo or bakery size. Depending on the muffin size, cooking times may need a slight adjustment. Quality pans include those made from nonstick ceramic or aluminized steel with a nonstick silicone coating. Silpat makes a reliable, flexible, silicone muffin pan; for more stability, set it on a sheet pan before placing in the oven.
Decorative, individual bundt pans, ramekins, cast-iron corn stick pans, ovenproof mugs, and whimsical silicone muffin cups can also be used. For best results, grease the pans well; wash by hand. Muffin liners come in colorful designs and can be made from parchment paper. Silver foil liners are a sturdy choice. Muffins usually rise more freely, though, if baked in a quality pan without liners.
To enrich basic muffins, substitute a small portion of wheat flour with oatmeal, oat flour, almond flour, cooked rice, bran cereal, wheat germ, or cornmeal. Sugar adds sweetness, helps with browning, and absorbs atmospheric moisture to keep the muffins soft. Use unsalted butter and large eggs. Add your favorite mix-ins such as fresh or dried fruits, nuts, trail mix, coconut, chopped chocolate, or chips. Regular or low-fat sour cream, buttermilk, yogurt, and heavy cream add flavor and tenderness.
Unlike cake batter, muffin batter should not be smooth but a bit lumpy like pancake batter — even with a little flour still visible. Overmixing pops the gas bubbles made by the leaveners, creating tough, rubbery muffins with tunnels. Properly mixing a muffin batter is an act of faith, but the rewards will be great.
1. Before baking, organize equipment and ingredients; complete advance prep. The French call this efficient system mise en place or “putting in place.”
2. Fresh spices and up-to-date leaveners are essential. Chilled ingredients should be at room temperature.
3. A heavy-duty muffin pan resists warping, provides even heat distribution, and aids in even browning. A nonstick pan allows quick release and is easy to clean.
4. Stir the flour in its container; spoon into measuring cups then level the tops. Extra flour can make heavy muffins. You can substitute ½ cup cake or pastry flour if desired.
5. Brush the muffin pan wells lightly with oil or coat with vegetable spray.
6. Don’t stir batter when portioning into muffin pan wells. A ½ cup, quick-release ice cream scoop is the right amount of batter for a standard muffin pan.
7. Thick muffin batter can be added to the tops of the muffin pan wells.
8. Add a little water to any empty muffin pan wells to protect the pan and help lift the muffins with a burst of steam.
9. To create muffin lift, some recipes call for 5 minutes at 425 F; then a reduced temperature of 350 F for the remaining time.
10. Oven temperatures vary from oven to oven; suggested baking times may need to be adjusted. Bake muffins in the middle of the oven; a toothpick inserted can come out with a few moist crumbs but not batter. Don’t overbake.
11. Quick bread and muffin batters are often interchangeable.
12. Top unbaked muffin batter with streusel, whole berries, chopped nuts, or coarse, sparkling sanding sugar. Add glazes to baked muffins.
13. Reheat an unglazed muffin in the microwave 15-20 seconds. Do ahead: If frozen, thaw muffins 2 to 3 hours at room temperature. If muffins are to be frozen, add glaze after thawing.
Glaze adds the final sweet touch; use different liquids to vary the flavor and richness. Tip: Make a whole recipe for dipping muffin tops; halve the recipe for drizzling.
2 cups sifted confectioners’ sugar 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 2 to 3 tablespoons milk, cream, or water 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract Pinch sea salt
Whisk ingredients together until smooth. Thin with a little more liquid if too thick; add a little more confectioners’ sugar if too thin.
Latte Spice Glaze: Substitute strong coffee for the milk; add ¼ teaspoon cinnamon.
Almond Glaze: Substitute almond extract for the vanilla extract.
Molasses Glaze: Substitute molasses for the milk.
Cream Cheese Glaze: Substitute 3 tablespoons soft cream cheese for the butter.
Orange Cream Glaze: Substitute half orange juice and half cream for the milk; add 1 teaspoon orange zest.
Apple Glaze: Reduce 1 cup apple cider to 4 tablespoons; use in place of the milk.
Don’t overmix or the streusel will be pasty. Fill the wells in the muffin pan ¾ full of batter so there will be plenty of room to add this tasty topping.
½ cup old-fashioned oats 2 tablespoons light brown sugar 1 tablespoon finely chopped pecans 2 tablespoons unsalted butter ¼ teaspoon spice (nutmeg, cinnamon, or pumpkin pie spice)
Blend the ingredients together. Sprinkle muffin batter evenly with the streusel mixture just before baking.
Apple butter makes muffins moist and flavorful; substitute applesauce, if desired. To add cream cheese centers, roll 12 small cubes of cream cheese in coarse turbinado or sanding sugar, then push one into the top of each muffin before baking. Increase baking time by a couple of minutes.
Optional toppings: Sprinkle batter with Oat-Streusel or drizzle baked, cool muffins with Apple Glaze.
½ cup melted butter (1 stick) ½ cup packed light brown sugar ½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup buttermilk 2 eggs, lightly beaten 1½ teaspoons vanilla 1 teaspoon fine sea salt ⅓ cup apple butter or pumpkin butter 1 small to medium tart apple, peeled, coarsely shredded (about 1 cup) ½ cup golden raisins or chopped walnuts 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder ¼ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon each ground cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and cloves
Heat oven to 400 F. Grease a 12-cup muffin pan. In a large bowl, whisk together butter, the sugars, buttermilk, eggs, vanilla, salt, and apple butter. Mix in apple and raisins. Separately whisk remaining dry ingredients together 30 seconds. Pour into buttermilk mixture. With a spatula, scrape bowl sides, folding ingredients together, only until flour disappears. Scoop batter evenly into the muffin tin. Bake 5 minutes, then reduce heat to 350 F. Bake 10 to 12 minutes or until muffins test done. Cool muffins about 5 minutes; remove from pan.
In place of the chocolate-raisin mixture used in these muffins, substitute your favorite mix-in, such as coarsely chopped nuts, halved fresh cranberries, dried cranberries, or chopped dates. Or choose two to equal 1½ cups. The batter holds well in the refrigerator for 3 or 4 days.
Optional: Muffins can be dipped into or drizzled with Molasses Glaze or Latte Spice Glaze.
1½ cups pumpkin puree ½ cup sour cream or plain yogurt ½ cup melted butter (1 stick) 2 large eggs ⅔ cup packed light brown sugar ⅓ cup sugar 1 teaspoon sea salt 2¼ cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons each ground cinnamon and ground ginger ½ teaspoon cloves 1 cup dark chocolate chips ½ cup golden raisins
Heat oven to 375 F. Grease a 12-cup muffin pan. In a large bowl, whisk together pumpkin, sour cream, butter, eggs, the sugars, and salt. Separately whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda, and spices 30 seconds. Pour into pumpkin mixture; add chocolate and raisins. With a spatula, scrape bowl sides, folding ingredients together, only until flour disappears. Scoop batter evenly into the muffin pan. Bake 15 minutes or until muffins are firm to the touch and test done. Cool muffins 10 minutes; remove from pan.
You can add 1 cup of mix-ins to these muffins; try a blend of shredded coconut, raisins, and chopped, toasted pecans or walnuts. Or add 1 cup fresh halved cranberries. Substitute cooked, mashed sweet potatoes or winter squash for the cooked carrot. After baked muffins are cool, drizzle the tops with Cream Cheese Glaze or Orange Cream Glaze, if desired.
¾ cup cooked, mashed carrot or winter squash ¾ cup vegetable oil (like safflower) 2 large eggs ⅓ cup buttermilk ⅔ cup packed, light brown sugar ⅓ cup granulated sugar 2 teaspoons vanilla 2¼ cups all-purpose flour 3 teaspoons baking powder ¼ teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon sea salt ½ teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground ginger ½ ground cloves ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
Heat oven to 350 F. Grease a 12-cup muffin pan. In a large bowl, whisk together carrot, oil, eggs, buttermilk, the sugars, and vanilla. Separately whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and spices 30 seconds. Pour into carrot mixture, with mix-ins as desired. With a spatula, scrape bowl sides, folding ingredients together, only until flour disappears. Scoop batter evenly into the muffin pan. Bake 12 to 14 minutes or until muffins are firm to the touch and test done. Cool muffins about 10 minutes; remove from pan.
A plain cake box mix is elevated into moist, flavorful muffins. Granted, homemade muffins are easy to make with a flavor that’s hard to beat, but almond streusel and flavorful ingredients make these taste more homemade. I add 1 rounded cup fresh whole cranberries, blueberries, or raspberries. If frozen, don’t thaw before adding.
3 ounces almond paste ¼ cup light brown sugar ¼ cup all-purpose flour Pinch salt 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, slightly cooled
Batter 1 (15.23-ounce) box classic yellow cake mix 4 tablespoons cheesecake instant pudding mix (or French vanilla flavor) 3 large eggs 1 cup sour cream or plain yogurt ½ cup vegetable oil (like safflower) Zest of 1 navel orange (reserve orange for juice) 1 teaspoon almond extract
Heat oven to 365 F. Grease a 12-cup muffin pan. To make Almond Streusel, crumble almond paste, sugar, flour, and salt together in a medium bowl. Work in butter until mixture is moist and crumbly. In a large bowl, whisk together cake mix and pudding mix. Separately whisk remaining ingredients together. Pour into cake mixture. With a spatula, scrape bowl sides, folding ingredients together, stirring about a minute until the mixture is smooth. Fold in berries, if used. Scoop batter evenly into the muffin pan; put 2 teaspoons of streusel over each portion of batter. Bake 15 to 18 minutes or until muffins are firm to the touch and test done. Cool muffins 10 minutes; remove from the pan.
Ground corn keeps the cornmeal muffins moist, and it adds flavor! Boost the flavor further with ¼ cup each minced green onion and red bell pepper. For a Mexican version, substitute one cup thawed, frozen street corn kernels. Include a dash of freshly ground black pepper. Grated sharp cheddar can be added to the batter or sprinkled on top for a complementary touch. The muffins are not sweet like cake; if desired, the sugar can be doubled.
2 large eggs 1 cup buttermilk, plus 2 tablespoons if needed ⅓ cup vegetable oil (like safflower) 1 cup frozen yellow corn kernels 1 cup stoneground plain cornmeal, fine grind (or plain cornmeal mix, like White Lily) 1 cup soft-wheat, all-purpose flour (like White Lily) 3 teaspoons baking powder ¼ teaspoon baking soda ¾ teaspoon fine sea salt 2 tablespoons sugar
Heat oven to 365 F. Grease a 12-cup muffin pan. In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, buttermilk, and oil. Process frozen corn in the food processor until finely ground but not pureed; stir into egg mixture. Separately whisk together remaining dry ingredients 30 seconds. Pour into egg mixture, including mix-ins, if desired. With a spatula, scrape bowl sides, folding ingredients together, only until flour disappears. Scoop batter evenly into the muffin pan. Bake about 15 minutes or until muffins are golden brown and test done. Cool 5 minutes; remove from pan. Serve warm with butter. Makes about 8 standard muffins.
Note: If using self-rising cornmeal mix, reduce baking powder to 1½ teaspoons and baking soda to ⅛ teaspoon.
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